You are currently browsing comments. If you would like to return to the full story, you can read the full entry here: “How to Stencil Fabric: Up-Cycle Your Pillows”.
You are currently browsing comments. If you would like to return to the full story, you can read the full entry here: “How to Stencil Fabric: Up-Cycle Your Pillows”.
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[…] She used our craft sized stencils to transform some old pillows into a decorating statement. Stenciling on fabric is so easy! To see how click here. You can also see Benjamin Moore’s Chalkboard paint on the […]
[…] own couch cover! You can then use the same stencil for a number of other DIY projects, like Ikat stenciled pillows, lampshades or a gorgeous feature wall. Looking at the items in the above image you can see a […]
[…] the same as our beehive boxes and just as easy to stencil on! Craft stencils are also great for DIY pillows, curtains and even floor […]
Hi there! This is a really great post! Thanks for sharing! I was wondering how this holds up over time, Does the ironing lock in the colors?
Thanks!
Hi Rachel,
Fabric paints have come a long way so they tend to hold up pretty well these days. We’re not sure if ironing would lock in the color but we haven’t had any complaints about color fade. Hope this helps!
I am wondering if you have any hints for stenciling on a large pre-made cushion. This is my first time trying this!
Hi Michele,
You may want to remove the cushion foam from inside of the cover before stenciling but place a piece of cardboard in there to catch any paint bleed. Start with the corner and continue to reposition the stencil until the cushion is complete.
I am considering stenciling on pre-made white curtains. As a first timer, are there any suggestions? Thanks!
Hi Nece,
First, if your fabric is wrinkled, make sure to iron it first! Tape your fabric to a flat surface (table or floor) so it doesn’t have any wrinkles or move around while you stencil. When stenciling on fabric, spray adhesive can be very helpful. Lightly (and we mean very lightly!! Like spray from at least 6 inches away!) mist your stencil with a spray adhesive, let it dry for a few seconds and place your stencil on your fabric surface, pressing it to achieve a tighter seal. Also, be sure to put something underneath the fabric so it doesn’t leak through to your flat surface! If too much paint is used during stenciling, it may leak through on the other side of the fabric, which may add stiffness to the fabric.
Use stencil brushes (if it is a smaller project) or a dense foam roller for a larger one. Add some textile medium (sold in craft stores) to your stencil acrylics and stir it in well. You can also get special fabric paint but to be honest, good craft acrylics with a dollop of textile medium work just as well and cost less! Use very little paint on your brush and always off load any extra paint onto a folded paper towel. See what I mean here: http://www.cuttingedgestencils.com/how-to-stencil-videos.html#basic
When using a stencil brush, apply the paint with a dabbing/swirling motion. After all of your stenciling is complete, let the stenciled fabric dry completely (at least 24 hours). Then slowly iron the stenciled fabric by pressing the iron for about 20 seconds on a low setting through the piece of soft thin cotton cloth. Heat setting will cure the paint and will help to prevent it from being washed off in the laundry.
*** SIDE NOTE*** It’s always a good idea to first do a test with a sample of your fabric to ensure good results. Do your stenciling, heat set it and wash the swatch to make sure the whole technique works on your fabric. If the paint washes away you may need more heat-setting time, but it usually holds up just fine.
Some fine fabrics will not tolerate heat setting and it’s always more difficult to stencil on sheer fabrics. We’ve stenciled on silk, cotton, linen and even sheer fabrics with great results but’s always better if your fabric doesn’t have too much texture.
Hope this helps! Happy Stenciling!!!