Frequently Asked Questions

Please chose the type of information that you need.

What type of paint should I use?
Most latex and acrylic paints work great. Benjamin Moore Aura paint is nice and opaque and covers great but tends to build up on the stencil which may require you to clean your stencil more often. Another Benjamin Moore paint called "Ben" seem to have ideal qualities for stenciling and we really like it and recommend it.

Regular latex house paint and craft acrylic paints like FolkArt (found at Michaels craft stores in small 8oz bottles) work great too! It's our second favorite. Acrylic paints in general are ideal for smaller craft projects or if you are doing a Wall Art stencil that involves multiple colors and shading. You can also use metallic paints, glazes, varnish, and textured paints and plaster for your stencil projects. 

We do not recommend using spray paint because it's hard to control and get a good results, but some people use it with great success. Some spray paints might cause crazing of the stencil, so make sure to test your paint on a small stencil that we include for free. 

Oil paint is not suitable for stenciling due to very slow drying time. You can use oil-based paint cremes sold in craft stores.

Using glitter is not recommended with stencils. it's hard to control and you might get lots of bleeding and smudging.

Can I stencil on a textured wall?
In general, it's possible to stencil over textured surfaces, however it depends on the roughness of your texture and your desired outcome.

Some textures out there are really rough, with huge "peaks and valleys" and if this is your case I would say that stenciling may not be an option. However, there are light to medium textures out there that are very suitable for stenciling. We have done many faux frescoes for customers with our stencils and this technique actually requires applying a textured plaster background first and then stenciling on top of it. Of course organic stencil designs such as leaves and branches are more forgiving than a designs that have straight lines and perfect edges.

With textures it is especially important that you put very little paint on your brush and always off-load it onto a paper towel. Use a rubbing/dabbing motion while stenciling and try not to force the paint under the edges of the stencil. You can also use a dense foam roller but make sure that you off load it onto some paper towels so that it is relatively dry. Use very little paint and don't press hard on the roller to avoid seepage. Using spray adhesive can also help a to prevent seepage of paint under the stencils. We love Elmer's re-positionable spray adhesive but any most re-positionable spray adhesives are fine. Always make a sample first or try stenciling a small area in a corner somewhere and immediately wipe it off with a moist baby wipe. Also, it's good to remember that using high contrast colors (like black over white) is much less forgiving than using colors that are similar to each other.
What's the difference between flat, satin or semi-gloss paint?
Paint comes in various sheen. There is Flat, Matte, Eggshell, Satin, Semigloss and Gloss, with Flat being least shiny and Gloss being most shiny and reflective when dry.

Flat paint is most porous and Gloss paint is most moisture-repelling. Flat is fastest drying and Gloss is slowest drying due to added glossy agents. Flat paint hides imperfections on your wall, while Gloss paint reveals them.

We suggest you use a flat, matte or eggshell finish for your background wall paint. The more glossy your background paint color is, the less it absorbs your stencil paint and the more bleed and smudging can occur. Flat stencil paint on a flat background is ideal combo. The background will absorb the stencil paint which will dry very quickly, almost instantly, between repeats. If you are looking to use different sheens, try stenciling with a gloss or semi gloss over a flat background color, but remember that gloss paint is slower drying, so allow more time between repeats to avoid smudging.
How do I avoid paint bleed when I stencil?
Due to the nature of stenciling, paint bleeding can occur. Bleeding happens when the paint seeps under the edge of your stencil and creates an edge that's less than perfect.
The idea is more about reducing bleed rather than eliminating it completely. Here are some tips on reducing bleeding while stenciling. See more tips in our "how To" videos.

*Don't use too much paint! Too much paint on your roller or brush is the biggest reason for bleed. Off load your brush or roller onto paper towels to remove excess paint and build your paint coverage with 2 coats if necessary. Even if you think that you don't have too much paint on a roller it still may be too much, so please blot off the roller onto the paper towel before stenciling.

*Don't use a roller with a nap! They hold too much paint. Using a dense foam roller has given us the best results.

*Don't push the paint under the edge of the stencil and don't apply too much pressure when rolling or stippling with the brush.

*Stenciling on a flat sheen base coat will work better then stenciling on glossier surfaces because your stencil paint absorbs into the basecoat and dries quicker and has less time to seep under the edge.

*Stenciling with flat latex or craft acrylic paint works best because it dries quickly and has less time to seep.

*Stenciling with gloss paints or glazes will increase the potential for bleed because they dry slowly and have more tome to seep under the edge.

*Using  a good spray adhesive like Elmer's can greatly reduce bleed. Lightly mist the back of the stencil in a well ventilated area and let dry for a minute. Don't drench the stencil with adhesive because it could transfer to the wall. Re-apply the adhesive every few prints or as it loses it's tack.

*Stenciling on smoother surfaces always works better then on textured surfaces. If you want to stencil a textured surface, it's best to select a pattern that is more organic and has less straight lines. This way any paint bleed will be less noticeable. Using a stencil or stipple brush, not a roller seems to work best for textured surfaces.

*The brand and type of paint you use always plays a part in the amount of bleed you could get. We love Benjamin Moore's "Ben" in flat and most craft acrylics such as Folk Art. Some paints are too watery or too gummy and this may contribute to more bleed.

*Some patterns show bleed more than others. Patterns with straight, crisp geometric lines are less forgiving than organic, ornate, damask patterns.

And finally, this is stenciling! It's not supposed to look like perfectly printed printed wallpaper or stark wall decals! This is a hand-applied artistic wall finish. In almost every case the bleed that you notice while applying the stencil will never be noticed  when the project is finished, or even if you just step 2' away from the wall.

If paint bleed occurrs, you can quickly wipe it off with a moist rag or baby wipe, or touch it up later with an artist liner brush and some base coat paint. It's a good idea to clean the paint that bled on the back side of the stencil, since it could contribute to more seepage.
Can I use spray paint with my stencil?
Sure, why not? Just a few things to consider before you start.
First of all, in most cases spray paint is rather toxic. So if you do use spray paint with your stencils try to do the project outside or at least in a well ventilated area.  Shake the can well before spraying.

Another thing to remember: spray paint is liquid and tends to drip under the stencil when you sprayed a bit too much. It might be a good idea to use spray adhesive on the back of your stencil so it sticks to the surface. This should help to keep the paint from blowing under the edges of the stencil.
Also, it's very easy to spray too much paint on. Always start spraying before the stencil openings and move across the stencil evenly. Stop spraying after you've passed over the openings. This prevents paint dripping. Spray multiple lighter coats and gradually build up your coverage. You may want to mask the surrounding surfaces to prevent overspray.

And one last thing. Spray paints usually take longer to dry then regular house paints.

In general, we do not recommend using spray paint for interior stenciling, but it is definitely do-able!
What is a good metallic paint brand?
We really like FolkArt metallic paint. You can find these very inexpensively at Michaels or Joanne's.

Benjamin Moore offers a few very nice metallic paints.

Some stores sell Modern Masters Metallic paints. These work great and come in a variety of really nice very opaque colors. They are however much more expensive than the FolkArt metallics.

Nova is another great brand if you are doing a larger project and want good quality metallics in larger quantities. They are available online at http://www.novacolorpaint.com/.
How do you stencil on furniture?
When stenciling on furniture, you want to insure good adhesion. If the piece has a varnish or a glossy finish you'll need to break the sheen. You can do this with a scotch brite pad, steel wool or fine grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the surface and then wipe down the piece with a little denatured alcohol on a rag to remove any grease, wax or furniture polish. When finished, soak any alcohol rags in water, place them outside and dispose of them on trash day. Alcohol rags can spontaneously combust so don't forget to soak them in water! Next, basecoat the piece if you want to change the overall color. Most acrylic paints work well, but to insure good adhesion you may want to use an adhesive primer such as Stix or Zinnser 1*2*3. These primers can even be tinted to the color you want. After your primer/basecoat is dry you can stencil with whatever paint you like. FolkArt acrylics work great. If you want to protect your artwork, you could then topcoat the table with a clear topcoat in your desired sheen.
How do I stencil on fabric?
First, if your fabric is wrinkled, make sure to iron it first. Tape your fabric to a flat surface (table or floor) so it doesn't have any wrinkles or move around while you stencil. When stenciling on fabric, spray adhesive is very helpful. Lightly mist your stencil with a spray adhesive, let it dry for a few seconds and place your stencil on your fabric surface, pressing it to achieve a tighter seal. Use stencil brushes (if it is a smaller project) or a dense foam roller for a larger one. Add some textile medium (sold in craft stores) to your stencil acrylics and stir it in well. You can also get special fabric paint but frankly, good craft acrylics with a dollop of textile medium work just as well and cost less! Use very little paint on your brush and always off load any extra paint onto a folded paper towel. When using a stencil brush, apply the paint with a dabbing/swirling motion. After all of your stenciling is complete, let the stenciled fabric dry completely (at least 24 hours). Now it's time to heat set the stenciling. Slowly iron the stenciled fabric by pressing the iron for about 20 seconds on a low setting through the piece of soft thin cotton cloth. Heat setting will cure the paint and will help to prevent it from being washed off in the laundry. It's always a good idea to first do a test with a sample of your fabric to ensure good results. Do your stenciling, heat set it and wash the swatch to make sure the whole technique works on your fabric. If the paint washes away you may need more heat-setting time, but it usually holds up just fine. Some fine fabrics will not tolerate heat setting and it's always more difficult to stencil on sheer fabrics. If too much paint is used during stenciling, it may leak through on the other side of the fabric, which may add stiffness to the fabric. If your fabric is thin, place some paper (or newspapers) under it to protect your working surface (table or floor) from possible paint seepage. We've stenciled on silk, cotton, linen and even sheer fabrics with great results but's always better if your fabric doesn't have too much texture.
How do I stencil my floor?
A couple of tips we can offer on stenciling floors. First, you'll need to de-gloss and clean any wax, grease or oil off the floor to insure good adhesion of your paint. You should lightly sand the entire floor with 220 sandpaper. This will break the gloss and allow your paint to stick.

Next, clean the floor. Sweep or vacuum up all the dust and then clean the floor with denatured alcohol. Wipe the floor with the alcohol rag and then follow it with a clean moist rag. As the rags get gunky replace them with fresh ones. Don't just throw the alcohol-soaked rags in the trash! They could spontaneously combust. Soak them in water and put them outside to dry out.

If you don't plan on using a top clearcoat, use a special paint recommended for floors as your base coat. If you plan on clearcoating the floor for extra durability, you could use almost any good quality house paint as your basecoat because your durability will come from the clearcoat.

Try to use a flat or semigloss paint as your basecoat. What you really want is good adhesion and quick drying. Oil basecoat paint would be a nightmare. Smell, cleanup :( Forget it!

For stenciling: basically you can use any waterbased paint, latex or acrylics. Do your stenciling as usual, using dense foam roller or brush. You can help drying with a hairdryer if necessary. Or simply let it dry well before top-coating. If you are clearcoating the floor later, you can use a flat sheen stencil paint which will dry quickly. The topcoat will add the final sheen and add durability.

Select a good topcoat in the sheen you want. Remember that the more glossy the topcoat, the more it reflects imperfections. We recommend a satin finish. They make great water-based topcoats these days so there is no need to use oil. The smell is very strong and lasting (harmful too) and the oil also yellows over time which can affect your floor colors.
How do I clean my stencil?
Usually you can clean your stencil with just water and a stiff brush, like the one used for scrubbing dishes. Lay the stencil on a flat surface like cutting board or baking tray and scrub it under running water.  Make sure to place a mesh into a drain hole, you don't want all that paint residue going down your drain. It's always easier to clean the stencil soon after you finish your project, as opposed to letting it sit for days or weeks. Depending on the paint used, it can come off very easily or may need a slight pre-soaking to loosen it. Usually, acrylic paints come off very easy, and some latex paints may stick a bit more. We have a nice video showing how to clean a stencil, please check out our Video tab!

For removal of adhesive and stubborn paint, try Dawn's "Power Dissolver" in a blue spray bottle. Not very easy to find, but amazing product.  Spray on your stencil and clean as usual, or spray the stencil, roll up very carefully or lay flat and place into a large plastic trash bag. Seal. Let sit for a few hours or - better - overnight and then clean as described above. DO NOT USE PAINT THINNER TO CLEAN THE STENCIL!
You can also sit brushes that have dried-out paint on them overnight, and oftentimes you will have saved that brush.
Some other products work too, such as Motsenbocker's Lift-Off Latex Based Paint Remover, Simple Green and Krud Cutter. For adhesive removal, try Bar Keeper's Friend cleaner.

It's important to remember that it's very difficult to completely remove spray adhesive from a stencil, but we find that it is not necessary to get it off completely, the stencil still will be very usable for your next project even if it's a little bit sticky. Just make sure to store it on a piece of a wax paper or freezer paper, as a backing.
What is the difference between large and small scale version of stencil?
We created the Large and Small Scale versions of certain stencil designs to give you options. The Small Scale is simply a scaled down or shrunken version of the Large Scale. If you want more pattern on your wall or if you are working on a small project then the small scale is ideal. If you are going for a bit more of an open less dense look, then the large scale may be what you're looking for.
Should I use the long or short versions of the stencil?
The reason why we created a long and short version of a number of our allover stencils is to accommodate the needs of different stenciling projects.  If you have an accent wall that has little to no obstructions (windows, doors, shelves, etc.) then the Long Version is best because it will expedite the stenciling process. If you are working in a tighter space with many corners and obstructions, then the Short Version is better because it is smaller and makes it easier to get around these obstacles. There is no difference in the design scale between the long and short versions. The only difference is in the size of the sheet of plastic and the amount of repeats.
Most latex and acrylic paints work great. Benjamin Moore Aura paint is nice and opaque and covers great but tends to build up on the stencil which may require you to clean your stencil more often. Another Benjamin Moore paint called "Ben" seem to have ideal qualities for stenciling and we really like it and recommend it.

Regular latex house paint and craft acrylic paints like FolkArt (found at Michaels craft stores in small 8oz bottles) work great too! It's our second favorite. Acrylic paints in general are ideal for smaller craft projects or if you are doing a Wall Art stencil that involves multiple colors and shading. You can also use metallic paints, glazes, varnish, and textured paints and plaster for your stencil projects. 

We do not recommend using spray paint because it's hard to control and get a good results, but some people use it with great success. Some spray paints might cause crazing of the stencil, so make sure to test your paint on a small stencil that we include for free. 

Oil paint is not suitable for stenciling due to very slow drying time. You can use oil-based paint cremes sold in craft stores.

Using glitter is not recommended with stencils. it's hard to control and you might get lots of bleeding and smudging.

In general, it's possible to stencil over textured surfaces, however it depends on the roughness of your texture and your desired outcome.

Some textures out there are really rough, with huge "peaks and valleys" and if this is your case I would say that stenciling may not be an option. However, there are light to medium textures out there that are very suitable for stenciling. We have done many faux frescoes for customers with our stencils and this technique actually requires applying a textured plaster background first and then stenciling on top of it. Of course organic stencil designs such as leaves and branches are more forgiving than a designs that have straight lines and perfect edges.

With textures it is especially important that you put very little paint on your brush and always off-load it onto a paper towel. Use a rubbing/dabbing motion while stenciling and try not to force the paint under the edges of the stencil. You can also use a dense foam roller but make sure that you off load it onto some paper towels so that it is relatively dry. Use very little paint and don't press hard on the roller to avoid seepage. Using spray adhesive can also help a to prevent seepage of paint under the stencils. We love Elmer's re-positionable spray adhesive but any most re-positionable spray adhesives are fine. Always make a sample first or try stenciling a small area in a corner somewhere and immediately wipe it off with a moist baby wipe. Also, it's good to remember that using high contrast colors (like black over white) is much less forgiving than using colors that are similar to each other.
Paint comes in various sheen. There is Flat, Matte, Eggshell, Satin, Semigloss and Gloss, with Flat being least shiny and Gloss being most shiny and reflective when dry.

Flat paint is most porous and Gloss paint is most moisture-repelling. Flat is fastest drying and Gloss is slowest drying due to added glossy agents. Flat paint hides imperfections on your wall, while Gloss paint reveals them.

We suggest you use a flat, matte or eggshell finish for your background wall paint. The more glossy your background paint color is, the less it absorbs your stencil paint and the more bleed and smudging can occur. Flat stencil paint on a flat background is ideal combo. The background will absorb the stencil paint which will dry very quickly, almost instantly, between repeats. If you are looking to use different sheens, try stenciling with a gloss or semi gloss over a flat background color, but remember that gloss paint is slower drying, so allow more time between repeats to avoid smudging.
Due to the nature of stenciling, paint bleeding can occur. Bleeding happens when the paint seeps under the edge of your stencil and creates an edge that's less than perfect.
The idea is more about reducing bleed rather than eliminating it completely. Here are some tips on reducing bleeding while stenciling. See more tips in our "how To" videos.

*Don't use too much paint! Too much paint on your roller or brush is the biggest reason for bleed. Off load your brush or roller onto paper towels to remove excess paint and build your paint coverage with 2 coats if necessary. Even if you think that you don't have too much paint on a roller it still may be too much, so please blot off the roller onto the paper towel before stenciling.

*Don't use a roller with a nap! They hold too much paint. Using a dense foam roller has given us the best results.

*Don't push the paint under the edge of the stencil and don't apply too much pressure when rolling or stippling with the brush.

*Stenciling on a flat sheen base coat will work better then stenciling on glossier surfaces because your stencil paint absorbs into the basecoat and dries quicker and has less time to seep under the edge.

*Stenciling with flat latex or craft acrylic paint works best because it dries quickly and has less time to seep.

*Stenciling with gloss paints or glazes will increase the potential for bleed because they dry slowly and have more tome to seep under the edge.

*Using  a good spray adhesive like Elmer's can greatly reduce bleed. Lightly mist the back of the stencil in a well ventilated area and let dry for a minute. Don't drench the stencil with adhesive because it could transfer to the wall. Re-apply the adhesive every few prints or as it loses it's tack.

*Stenciling on smoother surfaces always works better then on textured surfaces. If you want to stencil a textured surface, it's best to select a pattern that is more organic and has less straight lines. This way any paint bleed will be less noticeable. Using a stencil or stipple brush, not a roller seems to work best for textured surfaces.

*The brand and type of paint you use always plays a part in the amount of bleed you could get. We love Benjamin Moore's "Ben" in flat and most craft acrylics such as Folk Art. Some paints are too watery or too gummy and this may contribute to more bleed.

*Some patterns show bleed more than others. Patterns with straight, crisp geometric lines are less forgiving than organic, ornate, damask patterns.

And finally, this is stenciling! It's not supposed to look like perfectly printed printed wallpaper or stark wall decals! This is a hand-applied artistic wall finish. In almost every case the bleed that you notice while applying the stencil will never be noticed  when the project is finished, or even if you just step 2' away from the wall.

If paint bleed occurrs, you can quickly wipe it off with a moist rag or baby wipe, or touch it up later with an artist liner brush and some base coat paint. It's a good idea to clean the paint that bled on the back side of the stencil, since it could contribute to more seepage.
Sure, why not? Just a few things to consider before you start.
First of all, in most cases spray paint is rather toxic. So if you do use spray paint with your stencils try to do the project outside or at least in a well ventilated area.  Shake the can well before spraying.

Another thing to remember: spray paint is liquid and tends to drip under the stencil when you sprayed a bit too much. It might be a good idea to use spray adhesive on the back of your stencil so it sticks to the surface. This should help to keep the paint from blowing under the edges of the stencil.
Also, it's very easy to spray too much paint on. Always start spraying before the stencil openings and move across the stencil evenly. Stop spraying after you've passed over the openings. This prevents paint dripping. Spray multiple lighter coats and gradually build up your coverage. You may want to mask the surrounding surfaces to prevent overspray.

And one last thing. Spray paints usually take longer to dry then regular house paints.

In general, we do not recommend using spray paint for interior stenciling, but it is definitely do-able!
We really like FolkArt metallic paint. You can find these very inexpensively at Michaels or Joanne's.

Benjamin Moore offers a few very nice metallic paints.

Some stores sell Modern Masters Metallic paints. These work great and come in a variety of really nice very opaque colors. They are however much more expensive than the FolkArt metallics.

Nova is another great brand if you are doing a larger project and want good quality metallics in larger quantities. They are available online at http://www.novacolorpaint.com/.
When stenciling on furniture, you want to insure good adhesion. If the piece has a varnish or a glossy finish you'll need to break the sheen. You can do this with a scotch brite pad, steel wool or fine grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the surface and then wipe down the piece with a little denatured alcohol on a rag to remove any grease, wax or furniture polish. When finished, soak any alcohol rags in water, place them outside and dispose of them on trash day. Alcohol rags can spontaneously combust so don't forget to soak them in water! Next, basecoat the piece if you want to change the overall color. Most acrylic paints work well, but to insure good adhesion you may want to use an adhesive primer such as Stix or Zinnser 1*2*3. These primers can even be tinted to the color you want. After your primer/basecoat is dry you can stencil with whatever paint you like. FolkArt acrylics work great. If you want to protect your artwork, you could then topcoat the table with a clear topcoat in your desired sheen.
First, if your fabric is wrinkled, make sure to iron it first. Tape your fabric to a flat surface (table or floor) so it doesn't have any wrinkles or move around while you stencil. When stenciling on fabric, spray adhesive is very helpful. Lightly mist your stencil with a spray adhesive, let it dry for a few seconds and place your stencil on your fabric surface, pressing it to achieve a tighter seal. Use stencil brushes (if it is a smaller project) or a dense foam roller for a larger one. Add some textile medium (sold in craft stores) to your stencil acrylics and stir it in well. You can also get special fabric paint but frankly, good craft acrylics with a dollop of textile medium work just as well and cost less! Use very little paint on your brush and always off load any extra paint onto a folded paper towel. When using a stencil brush, apply the paint with a dabbing/swirling motion. After all of your stenciling is complete, let the stenciled fabric dry completely (at least 24 hours). Now it's time to heat set the stenciling. Slowly iron the stenciled fabric by pressing the iron for about 20 seconds on a low setting through the piece of soft thin cotton cloth. Heat setting will cure the paint and will help to prevent it from being washed off in the laundry. It's always a good idea to first do a test with a sample of your fabric to ensure good results. Do your stenciling, heat set it and wash the swatch to make sure the whole technique works on your fabric. If the paint washes away you may need more heat-setting time, but it usually holds up just fine. Some fine fabrics will not tolerate heat setting and it's always more difficult to stencil on sheer fabrics. If too much paint is used during stenciling, it may leak through on the other side of the fabric, which may add stiffness to the fabric. If your fabric is thin, place some paper (or newspapers) under it to protect your working surface (table or floor) from possible paint seepage. We've stenciled on silk, cotton, linen and even sheer fabrics with great results but's always better if your fabric doesn't have too much texture.
A couple of tips we can offer on stenciling floors. First, you'll need to de-gloss and clean any wax, grease or oil off the floor to insure good adhesion of your paint. You should lightly sand the entire floor with 220 sandpaper. This will break the gloss and allow your paint to stick.

Next, clean the floor. Sweep or vacuum up all the dust and then clean the floor with denatured alcohol. Wipe the floor with the alcohol rag and then follow it with a clean moist rag. As the rags get gunky replace them with fresh ones. Don't just throw the alcohol-soaked rags in the trash! They could spontaneously combust. Soak them in water and put them outside to dry out.

If you don't plan on using a top clearcoat, use a special paint recommended for floors as your base coat. If you plan on clearcoating the floor for extra durability, you could use almost any good quality house paint as your basecoat because your durability will come from the clearcoat.

Try to use a flat or semigloss paint as your basecoat. What you really want is good adhesion and quick drying. Oil basecoat paint would be a nightmare. Smell, cleanup :( Forget it!

For stenciling: basically you can use any waterbased paint, latex or acrylics. Do your stenciling as usual, using dense foam roller or brush. You can help drying with a hairdryer if necessary. Or simply let it dry well before top-coating. If you are clearcoating the floor later, you can use a flat sheen stencil paint which will dry quickly. The topcoat will add the final sheen and add durability.

Select a good topcoat in the sheen you want. Remember that the more glossy the topcoat, the more it reflects imperfections. We recommend a satin finish. They make great water-based topcoats these days so there is no need to use oil. The smell is very strong and lasting (harmful too) and the oil also yellows over time which can affect your floor colors.
Usually you can clean your stencil with just water and a stiff brush, like the one used for scrubbing dishes. Lay the stencil on a flat surface like cutting board or baking tray and scrub it under running water.  Make sure to place a mesh into a drain hole, you don't want all that paint residue going down your drain. It's always easier to clean the stencil soon after you finish your project, as opposed to letting it sit for days or weeks. Depending on the paint used, it can come off very easily or may need a slight pre-soaking to loosen it. Usually, acrylic paints come off very easy, and some latex paints may stick a bit more. We have a nice video showing how to clean a stencil, please check out our Video tab!

For removal of adhesive and stubborn paint, try Dawn's "Power Dissolver" in a blue spray bottle. Not very easy to find, but amazing product.  Spray on your stencil and clean as usual, or spray the stencil, roll up very carefully or lay flat and place into a large plastic trash bag. Seal. Let sit for a few hours or - better - overnight and then clean as described above. DO NOT USE PAINT THINNER TO CLEAN THE STENCIL!
You can also sit brushes that have dried-out paint on them overnight, and oftentimes you will have saved that brush.
Some other products work too, such as Motsenbocker's Lift-Off Latex Based Paint Remover, Simple Green and Krud Cutter. For adhesive removal, try Bar Keeper's Friend cleaner.

It's important to remember that it's very difficult to completely remove spray adhesive from a stencil, but we find that it is not necessary to get it off completely, the stencil still will be very usable for your next project even if it's a little bit sticky. Just make sure to store it on a piece of a wax paper or freezer paper, as a backing.
We created the Large and Small Scale versions of certain stencil designs to give you options. The Small Scale is simply a scaled down or shrunken version of the Large Scale. If you want more pattern on your wall or if you are working on a small project then the small scale is ideal. If you are going for a bit more of an open less dense look, then the large scale may be what you're looking for.
The reason why we created a long and short version of a number of our allover stencils is to accommodate the needs of different stenciling projects.  If you have an accent wall that has little to no obstructions (windows, doors, shelves, etc.) then the Long Version is best because it will expedite the stenciling process. If you are working in a tighter space with many corners and obstructions, then the Short Version is better because it is smaller and makes it easier to get around these obstacles. There is no difference in the design scale between the long and short versions. The only difference is in the size of the sheet of plastic and the amount of repeats.
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