Stenciling on rough or textured walls may contribute to increased paint bleed. For more information on stenciling on textured walls, see our
Stencil features an easy registration system
use parts of the previously painted design to align the stencil, check
for level and continue. This gives
you a seamless "wallpaper" look. Don't worry about
super perfect alignment: in the end your eye will never ever notice the
discrepancy. We decorative pros "fudge" damasks and allover patterns
the time! The walls in most houses are often not straight, so some
"fudging" while stenciling is very helpful and, in the end, not
noticeable.Want to learn how to stencil an interlocking allover pattern?
Easier than you think! Here are the detailed illustrated step-by-step Damask/Allover Stenciling Tips.
And make sure you watch our short step-by-step Video Tutorials!
find them extremely helpful for your stenciling project. While prior
experience is helpful when working with repeat interlocking stencils,
even beginners get great results!
Try this stencil with our new Clip-on Stencil Level
, (sold separately) and discover how
easy it is to achieve perfectly level results without dealing with all
those bulky heavy bubble levels and annoying laser levels.
We find that it is not necessary to use spray adhesive with our stencils
, but for this crisp geometric pattern it is recommended. If you
want to minimize paint seepage or are using high
contrasting colors, adhesive is very helpful (Elmer's spray adhesive
be the best). Make sure you shake the can well and lightly mist (not
drench) the stencil, and let it dry for a moment before positioning it
on the wall. This step will prevent the adhesive residue transferring
to the wall. You'll need to re-mist the stencil after a few repeats.
Clean-up tip: Spray the stencil with Simple Green to help to remove
adhesive residue.Did you know you can stencil on fabric too?
can create custom stenciled curtains, pillows and table cloths with our
stencils! When stenciling on fabric, stencil adhesive is very helpful.
First, tape your ironed fabric to the surface so it doesn't move around
while you stencil. Use stencil brushes, or roller, and add some textile
medium (sold in craft stores) to your acrylic paint. You can also get a
special fabric paint, but, frankly, good craft acrylics with a dollop
of textile medium work just as well, and costs way less too! :) Let the
stenciled image dry completely, 24 hours is best, then heat-set it by
ironing the fabric for about 20 seconds (more or less) on a LOW setting
through the piece of cloth. Heat-setting will cure the paint and
prevent it from being washed off in the washing machine. Always
experiment with a sample of your fabric first to ensure good results.
I've stenciled on silk, cotton, linen and even sheer fabrics with great
results. It's always better if your fabric doesn't have too much
is made out of durable 12 mil clear plastic
stencil material. This material is strong but flexible, reusable and
easy to clean. We love it so much more than standard 5-8 mil Mylar!
It's not brittle, user friendly and just so easy to work with. In our
many years of professional stenciling this material has proven to be
far superior to any other stencil material we used. Our customers love
it too, and we are sure that you'll notice the difference! Our stencils
will last a long time and are a pleasure to use.